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Cake day: June 7th, 2023

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  • klangcola@reddthat.comtoAsklemmy@lemmy.ml***
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    5 months ago

    Instead of one super chunky battery, how about a laptop with replaceable batteries, in combination with a UPS?

    UPS is so you can actually replace the laptop battery with a spare one , even during a power outage. Just run the laptop on AC from the UPS while changing batteries. Or see if you can find a UPS with a long lasting battery. Entry level ones only have like 15-30 minutes of battery life though, since they’re more intended for safe shutdowns or brownouts.


  • You might want to look up SMR vs CMR, and why it matters for NASes. The gist is that cheaper drives are SMR, which work fine mostly, but can time out during certain operations, like a ZFS rebuild after a drive failure.

    Sorry don’t remember the details, just the conclusion that’s it’s safer to stay away from SMR for any kind of software RAID

    EDIT: also, there was the SMR scandal a few years ago where WD quietly changed their bigger volume WD Red (“NAS”) drives to SMR without mentioning it anywhere in the speccs. Obviously a lot of people were not happy to find that their “NAS” branded hard drives were made with a technology that was not suitable for NAS workload. From memory i think it was discovered when someone investigated why their ZFS rebuild kept failing on their new drive.



  • This sounds like a FOSS utopian future :)

    There’s a few projects that have started towards this path with single-click deployable apps, you could even say HomeAssistant OS does this to some extent my managing the services for you.

    I believe one of the biggest hurdle for a “self hosting appliance” is resilience to hardware failure. Noone wants to loose decades of family photos or legal documents due to a SSD going bad , or the cat spilling water on their “hosting box”. So automated reliable off-site backups and recovery procedures for both data and configs is key.

    Databox from BBC / Nottingham University is also a very interesting concept worth looking in to:

    A platform for managing secure access to data and enabling authorised third parties to provide the owner authenticated control and accountability.












  • That’s very strange, which distro and GPU was this? So I don’t recommend that to anyone?

    I’m assuming the GPU in question was Nvidia, since AMD and Intel make their driver opensource and baked in to the kernel. Sadly nVidias latest kernel (535) has been troublesome, so I’m still on the previous 525. nVidia is about to release 545, which looks to be very promising.

    Luckily on Ubuntu changing driver is as easy as opening the Additional Drivers application, selecting the driver version, hit apply and reboot. PopOS, Bazzite, and a few others comes with Nvidia drivers preinstalled.

    Best of luck if you try again in the future


  • Application Z requires another 3GB because it needs Gnome runtime version X+1, not version X. Although I do believe Flatpak does some kind of reduplication so actual used space is somewhat less.

    It’s also less of a problem if you flatpak all the apps vs having just a handful. The more apps the better chance they’re actually sharing runtimes.

    Flatpak updates are handled very smoothly by KDE Discover, I always assumed Gnome Software did the same, so no additional package manager required.

    Despite the few downsides Flatpak is still wonderful. As a Kubuntu user it’s nice to say Farewell random PPAs whenever there’s a need for an actual newish version of an application


  • Like others said it’s mostly just practice.

    What helps is to align the (short) ends and hold them flat between your index finger and thumb. Use your free hand to get them in order. Once they’re in order, keep holding them still between your index finger and thumb using one hand, then use your free hand to slot on the connector

    Edit: also bending them back and forth a bit will soften them up and reduce them curling in all sorts of directions. It also weakens them, so don’t overdo it (mostly only works for solid cable, the type meant for permanent installations like inside walls)