I run easy-rsa on a linux box. Just manually generate CSR’s and sign them via SSH.
And simply trust the CA cert in windows, linux and whatever extra places (normally firefox cert store).
Post the crl.pem to /var/www/html/ and let NGINX use that.
For most things public like plex or whatever i just use letsencrypt. Easy-rsa is really just for internal stuff like my NAS, VPN etc.
The ARR tools are basically a search engine website you host. The interact with a few other tools you have to have access to/pay for. Namely an indexing service and a (for some) a download service. They can use torrents, so you dont HAVE to pay for downloading, but using something like newsgroups is really nice and add reliability and security.
THe “ARR’s” basically then are just a fancy UI and scheduler and just search the indexing service, download the files you want, re-assemble them and copy them to the location you want (often a file share that your media player like Plex or Jellyfin will use).
You can set them to continually look for something too. So for Sonarr, it will auto-download new episodes as soon as they appear in the index. Or if you see a commercial for something upcoming, you can add it and monitor it and as soon as it starts showing up in the indexes it will download.
All the aarrrs. Saturates my isp bandwidth, have no issues with finding stuff, no takedown or piracy warnings…
There definately is something. They have a ton of products. I’d have to look through my list as well. The CSS runs switchos lite, but honestly its fine. I can do CLI configs (brocade, cisco, cisco smb etc) but its whatever.
At my parents house i have been using a Mikrotik RB260GSP since about 2016 on their net. It also runs swos and im not doing anything crazy on it (in fact i never bothered with VLAN’s there though i probably should setup a guest vlan. But its been fine for years now.
if the firewall can be updated regularly then sure.
Mikrotik makes perfectly acceptable switches at a reasonable price with a variety of features, vlan compat is pretty common. A MikroTik CSS610-8P-2S+in will give you 2 10 Gb sfp , 8 x 1Gbe with PoE+ and vlans for under 300 bucks.
I have 3.
Dakboard above the fridge shows calendar and shared photo album. It also runs bluetooth and serves as a relay for Homeassitant and a few kitchen devices (ie: igrill mini probe for meat).
pikvm for a desktop
pikvm+ kvm for lab rack esxi servers.
the latter two also run tailscale and allow me to SSH proxy if needed as a back VPN/remote access utility.
There is also a 4th. It runs NUT/UPS tools for their network gear and a mail relay for alerting and also tailscale so I can proxy if necessary.
Since its tailscale etc. Only key based auth is allowed on these boxes.
I saw a graph yesterday that put them squarely between the nvidia 4000 and the latest AMD gen in terms of performance. M
Edit: I have bad memory. Here’s the graph. https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/QKdmNvH8KqrZmnnqRDiz6k-970-80.png.webp
Ah. That makes sense.
Interestingly the game is downloading for me. I have had it in my library for some time now.
Is it saying its been pulled for new sales only?
For me, this was because the PS4 uses USB 2.0 that caps out at 480 Mbps. It was basically doing checksums of the backup files vs the restored and it just took time, even when the backups I had it running on were a sata SSD.
Would agree. Especially re:Nintendo.
One of my biggest annoyance is when you have multiple switches on a family account. If you use cartridges local co-op (or whatever it is called) requires two copies of the game (a cartridge in each). If you have the downloaded versions/digital download, then any device on the Nintendo account (ie: 2 switches for kids on a family account) can play against each other locally.
I don’t think you can cache/save a cartridge to a device to be able to do their local play feature (ie via ad-hoc connections in a car)
I have backups of my games on a PS4, which is air gapped (because the USB interface took a shot of lighning and no longer works).
I have been able to restore them and play games/saves on this console.
Here: https://www.playstation.com/en-us/support/hardware/ps4-back-up-and-restore-with-external-storage/
FTA:
PS4 console data you can back up Backing up your data regularly is a great way to ensure that important data is saved. You can back up the following types of data saved to a USB drive.
- Games and apps
- Saved data
- Screenshots and video clips
- Settings
All user data saved on your PS4 console (excluding trophies) is included in the backup data. When you restore your backup data, your PS4 console is reset, and all data saved on your console is erased. If you want to return data without restoring your console, use USB extended storage or cloud storage.
I have backups of my PS4, with games downloaded from the PS store that say different.
Heck any Playstation disc games tries multiple times to get you to save it to the HDD.
Not to mention that as long as it’s a digital download, you don’t own the game - you lease it at a flat rate.
not true all the time. Plenty of games once you have the files are easily able to run. KSP is one such example. I can just copy the KSP folder to any computer and play the game.
Its the devs choice to require things like Steam to validate the game etc.
You download them and back them up. What happens if the disc is scratched or your buddy drops a blunt on it?
I do similar. For laptops and docks, especially if they change setups it can be a pita (though you just need to copy files around).
Also the DE monitor config (ie that you use to login) is logically different to a users x config. So you gotta copy that over to make sure the primary monitor etc is right.
You can buy a MacBook and have it preregistered with your apple business account. From there the first run will auto add it to jamf and apply policies.
There are quality docks that work on displaylink. The dell D6000 is one example and we issue them out freely at work.
Most third party off brand docks will have higher failure rates. We see that with some anker docks that were usb-c+pd we use/had to source during the great supply chain snafu during covid. They worked in a pinch but aren’t reliable like a Lenovo or Dell dock. That’s less a displaylink thing and more a cheap dock thing.
Copy them to the box. Sign them. Copy the cert file off the box back to the requester.